The area was once a superlake almost 100 feet (30 metres) deep, over an area of 30,888 sq. miles (80,000 square km). The climate changed and it 10,000 years ago Lake Makgadikgadi was well on the way to drying up. As the water evaporated, huge glistening salt-encrusted pans were left. These pans look as flat as a billiard table and stretch as far as the eye can see. Occasionally, this extraordinary landscape is dotted with rocky outcrops and large stranded sand dunes.
The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park includes a portion of these enormous Makgadikgadi Pans, which are almost devoid of human habitation. However, villages on the periphery and in between the pans is evidence that the area has supported people as far back as the stone age. Today the area contains large numbers of animals who migrate to grasslands in the west of the park after the rains.
Journeying into this magical land and across the desolate pans, you somehow feel its ancient mystique. The subtle hues at sunset transform Makgadikgadi into a surreal wonderland, which is unlike anywhere else. During the day the dusty pans, with whirlwinds skirting across a seemingly endless desert, offer the best way to come face to face with true isolation.
Makgadikgadi, the name of which implies a vast open lifeless land, is not without its folklore. There are stories of people setting out from Gweta to explore the land that lay between them and the Boteti River to seek a favourable environment in which to settle. They entered these great thirstlands at the driest time of year, drawn by what they perceived as large lakes of sparkling water on the horizon. Suffering badly from thirst, the lakes kept drawing them hurriedly on in their attempts to reach the life-giving water that always remained just ahead of them. Gradually, one by one, they fell and died.
But Makgadikgadi is not always dry. The pans, which are situated in half the south, east and northeastern areas of the park, fill with water during the rains from mid-November and mostly retain their water into April or May. The "thirstlands" are then transformed into great sheets of water, which attract a spectacular array of waterbirds and trigger dramatic migrations of wildebeest and zebra. It is unfortunate that this huge water spectacle becomes practically inaccessible by road at this time, but anyone fortunate enough to fly over the area during the wet season sees a water wonderland of incredible scenic beauty.
Makgadikgadi was initially state land. People have never been resident in its waterless interior, but in times of drought, surrounding villagers were permitted to graze their livestock within the area, withdrawing them to their homes when conditions improved. The area was declared a game reserve in 1970 and in December 1992, the boundaries were extended and National Park status was attained. The present park covers some 4,900 square kilometres.
Makgadikgadi, the name of which implies a vast open lifeless land, is not without its folklore. There are stories of people setting out from Gweta to explore the land that lay between them and the Boteti River to seek a favourable environment in which to settle. They entered these great thirstlands at the driest time of year, drawn by what they perceived as large lakes of sparkling water on the horizon. Suffering badly from thirst, the lakes kept drawing them hurriedly on in their attempts to reach the life-giving water that always remained just ahead of them. Gradually, one by one, they fell and died.
But Makgadikgadi is not always dry. The pans, which are situated in half the south, east and northeastern areas of the park, fill with water during the rains from mid-November and mostly retain their water into April or May. The "thirstlands" are then transformed into great sheets of water, which attract a spectacular array of waterbirds and trigger dramatic migrations of wildebeest and zebra. It is unfortunate that this huge water spectacle becomes practically inaccessible by road at this time, but anyone fortunate enough to fly over the area during the wet season sees a water wonderland of incredible scenic beauty.
Makgadikgadi was initially state land. People have never been resident in its waterless interior, but in times of drought, surrounding villagers were permitted to graze their livestock within the area, withdrawing them to their homes when conditions improved. The area was declared a game reserve in 1970 and in December 1992, the boundaries were extended and National Park status was attained. The present park covers some 4,900 square kilometres.
VEGETATION
The park contains four main vegetation types; riverine woodland, scrubland, pure grassland and salt pans. The pans support palm groves and peculiar looking Baobab trees whose branches look more like roots, giving rise to the name 'upside down tree. These are interspersed with short spiky yellow grass found on rises between the pans, known as 'prickly salt grass'. This is extremely saline resistant to the extent that salt crystals can sometimes be seen on the leaves. The interior of the reserve comprises scrub and grassland with a few 'islands' of Real Fan Palms and Camel thorn acacia.
The park contains four main vegetation types; riverine woodland, scrubland, pure grassland and salt pans. The pans support palm groves and peculiar looking Baobab trees whose branches look more like roots, giving rise to the name 'upside down tree. These are interspersed with short spiky yellow grass found on rises between the pans, known as 'prickly salt grass'. This is extremely saline resistant to the extent that salt crystals can sometimes be seen on the leaves. The interior of the reserve comprises scrub and grassland with a few 'islands' of Real Fan Palms and Camel thorn acacia.
ANIMALS & BIRDS
From April to November game such as springbok, gemsbok, wildebeest and zebra move slowly from the pans area in the south east of the park, to the Boteti River on the western side. During this migration animals accumulate in their thousands. The heavily wooded areas beside the river also contain shy antelopes like duiker and bushbuck.
If the rains arrive with enough force and river water floods into the Makgadikgadi salt pans, there is nowhere more complete in its transformation than here.Tiny crustaceans hatch and algae blooms to provide food for the largest breeding flocks of greater and lesser flamingos in Africa.The surface of the pans turns a deep pink from 30,000 breeding pairs of these birds. This occurs mainly in the pans to the east of the National Park, particularly Sowa Pan. Other water birds are also abundant and a good place to see them is at Nata Bird Sanctuary, just off the main road at the northern end of Sowa Pan.
As animals and birds are most prevalent during the rainy season in areas normally inaccessible by vehicle, the prime objective in visiting this reserve is not to view game, but to experience true remoteness and absolute isolation. Makgadikgadi - a vast wilderness of space and timelessness.
During the rainy season there can be thousands of flamingo on the pans and the lodges have guides who can show you where you can see this wonderful sight. The variety of other bird life found in the Makgadikgadi is outstanding and the grasslands are home to a wide range of animals. The bird life is a specialist's dream - whitebacked and lappetfaced vultures, bateleur, ostrich, kori bustard, black korhaan and bronze winged courser, four species of sandgrouse and a startling variety of larks.
If the rains arrive with enough force and river water floods into the Makgadikgadi salt pans, there is nowhere more complete in its transformation than here.Tiny crustaceans hatch and algae blooms to provide food for the largest breeding flocks of greater and lesser flamingos in Africa.The surface of the pans turns a deep pink from 30,000 breeding pairs of these birds. This occurs mainly in the pans to the east of the National Park, particularly Sowa Pan. Other water birds are also abundant and a good place to see them is at Nata Bird Sanctuary, just off the main road at the northern end of Sowa Pan.
As animals and birds are most prevalent during the rainy season in areas normally inaccessible by vehicle, the prime objective in visiting this reserve is not to view game, but to experience true remoteness and absolute isolation. Makgadikgadi - a vast wilderness of space and timelessness.
During the rainy season there can be thousands of flamingo on the pans and the lodges have guides who can show you where you can see this wonderful sight. The variety of other bird life found in the Makgadikgadi is outstanding and the grasslands are home to a wide range of animals. The bird life is a specialist's dream - whitebacked and lappetfaced vultures, bateleur, ostrich, kori bustard, black korhaan and bronze winged courser, four species of sandgrouse and a startling variety of larks.
SEASONS
Both dry season and wet season visits to this park are recommended in order to witness the dramatic appearance of the pans at their driest and to experience the transformation to a water wonderland, and see the wildebeest and zebra migrations, in the wet season. Linking a few days in Makgadikgadi with a similar period of time in its nearby sister park, Nxai Pan, will give visitors a distinctly different experience.
Both dry season and wet season visits to this park are recommended in order to witness the dramatic appearance of the pans at their driest and to experience the transformation to a water wonderland, and see the wildebeest and zebra migrations, in the wet season. Linking a few days in Makgadikgadi with a similar period of time in its nearby sister park, Nxai Pan, will give visitors a distinctly different experience.
Rainy Season: November to March the pans fill up and retain water until April or May. Much of the Makgadikgadi Pans area becomes inaccessible during the rainy season and the only way to see the spectacular flamingo flocks is by aircraft. It is extremely dangerous to venture into the pans during the rainy season unless you are with a guided experienced in the area. During a low-rainfall year, May, October and November are also acceptable.This area gets very hot during the day (up to °F (40°C), but is mild and pleasant at night.
Dry season: April to September is the dry season with strong winds from August to November.From April to July game viewing is best within the park and after that it moves to inaccessible areas. March to September are the best months to experience the pans. Winter is very pleasant during the day but ice-cold at night.
MAKGADIKGADI PANS SPECIALITIES
· Riding a quad bike across the desolate pans· Flamingo breeding season on Sowa Pan· Staying in a luxury lodge by the salt pans· Night sky studded with a million stars· Feelings of total isolation · Complete and unrelenting silence · Self discovery · Finding stone age tools in the middle of nowhere, and leaving them for others to discoverFACTSIt was proclaimed a game reserve in 1970 and in 1992 its boundaries were extended and it was given National Park status.The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park covers an area of 1,891 sq. miles (4,900 sq. km) but the pans outside the national park are the largest salt pans in the world exceeding 4,633 sq. miles (12,000 sq. km).This is a malarial area
HOW TO GET THERE
The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is situated roughly halfway between Maun and Nata on the Francistown road in northern Botswana. A modest looking turnoff to the park's main entrance can be found 160 kilometres east of Maun and 45 kilometres west of the small village of Gweta, which has the nearest lodge accommodation, fuel and supplies.
Nata and Gweta lie on the main tar road between Francistown and Maun and are the closest towns to these pans. If you are driving on the pans it is best to let someone know where you are going and to take along water and a compass. Do not travel on the pans during or shortly after rain as you could quite easily end up losing your vehicle in the mud. Some tracks are very sandy and there are patches of black cotton soil so it is advisable to use a 4 wheel drive vehicle.
From turning off the main tar road, 8 kilometres of rough gravel road leads to the park entrance gate, where entry fees are to be paid. All roads within the park are rough and in many cases very sandy, so it is essential to have a 4x4 vehicle. It is also wise to carry water and travel in tandem with a second vehicle, as, if there should be a breakdown deep within the park, it may be a long wait before any other vehicle is likely to come along to assist.
The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is situated roughly halfway between Maun and Nata on the Francistown road in northern Botswana. A modest looking turnoff to the park's main entrance can be found 160 kilometres east of Maun and 45 kilometres west of the small village of Gweta, which has the nearest lodge accommodation, fuel and supplies.
Nata and Gweta lie on the main tar road between Francistown and Maun and are the closest towns to these pans. If you are driving on the pans it is best to let someone know where you are going and to take along water and a compass. Do not travel on the pans during or shortly after rain as you could quite easily end up losing your vehicle in the mud. Some tracks are very sandy and there are patches of black cotton soil so it is advisable to use a 4 wheel drive vehicle.
From turning off the main tar road, 8 kilometres of rough gravel road leads to the park entrance gate, where entry fees are to be paid. All roads within the park are rough and in many cases very sandy, so it is essential to have a 4x4 vehicle. It is also wise to carry water and travel in tandem with a second vehicle, as, if there should be a breakdown deep within the park, it may be a long wait before any other vehicle is likely to come along to assist.
WHERE TO STAY
Nata and Sua Pan Lodges are convenient for visitors to Sowa pan. They both also offer camping facilities and there is a campsite at Nata Sanctuary with ablutions and hot showers. Gweta Rest Camp and Planet Baobab Camp near Gweta have various types of accommodation and can offer trips on the pans with quadbikes.
4WD / Selfdrive - Cultural Tours - Adventure Tours - Ornithology - Quad Bikes - Eco-Tours - Mobile safaris - Game Drives
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